Trim for knit garments.



R. MUELLER.

TRIM FOR KNIT GARMENTS.

APPLICATION FILED 11:12.13, 1912.

1 ,054,233. l Patented Feb. 25, 19x13.

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ATTORNEY R. MUELLER.

TRIM POR KNIT GARMBNTS.

APPLICATION FILED PEB. s, 1912.

Patented Feb. 25, 1913.

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TRIM FOR KNIT GARMEN'I'S.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 6, 1912.

Patented Feb. 25, 1913.

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UNITED STATEST OFFICE.

RUDOLPH MUELLER, 0F KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI, ASSIGNOR TO GOODENOW- LBROOKFIELD KNITTING COMPANY, OF KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI, A CORPORA- TION OF MISSOURI.

TRIM FOR KNIT GARMENTS.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Feb. 25, 1.913.

T o all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, RUDOLPH MUELLER, a subject of the Emperor of Germany, residing at Kansas City, in the county of Jackson and State of Missouri, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Trim for Knit Garments; and I do declarethe following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invent-ion, suchl as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters and figures of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

My invention relates to knit trim for garments and more particularly to a trim for finishing the edges of garments cut from stock knit material in which the edges to be finished are not selvaged.

When the garment has a selvage edge it is a comparatively simple matter to sew trim thereto, but when the edge is ragged the trim must be setback from the raw edge and particular care given to the sewing or the threads will pull through the edge of the garment when the latter is used. The usual practice for protectin the ragged or cut edge is to use a piece dou le the intended width of the edge or trim, fold it, and sew it up over the front outside edge of the garment and over the back under .side edge. This form of trim must then be pressed and button holes made through two thicknesses of cloth, which usually have a piece like cambric inserted between them to hold the button holes. This double trim signifies, as a rule, cheapness, and only on high grade full fashioned garments can single thickness trim be put on.

This invention, however, allows the `application of a single thickness trim.on a cut, not full fashioned, garment. In other Words, it allows a cheap cut garment to be equipped with asingle thickness trim in imitation of full fashioned garments. F or example, in full fashioned sweater coats the edges of the coat sections are selvaged and single `thickness trim. ap lied thereto, to give the garment the full" ashioned` appeal'- ance.

By means of my invention a sweater coat formed of cut sections can have my improvedl form of trim applied thereto, and when so finished will have the appearance of single thickness trim, thereby giving the garment the full fashioned appearance.

More specifically my improvement may be termed a split trim, in that it comprises a body portion divided at one edge to form two separate plies which are knit integral with the body and adapted for receiving the raw edge of the garment there between. It is a parent that with such a structure, both e( ges of the trim may be selvaged so that they may be sewed securely to the garment, and that button holes may be sewed in the one piece body.

While the present invention relates solely to the split trim, I have illustrated in some detail thekind of stitch and the knitf tino machine used in its manufacture, in or er that the trim may be more easily and clearly understood.

In the accompanying drawings Figure I shows a lower front corner of a garment finished with my improved trim, part of the trim being folded back to more clearly show the manner of its application t'o the garment.. The view merely shows design of the garment and trim and is not intended to illustrate any particular stitch. Fig. II is a sectional view on the line II-IL Fig. I. Fig. III is a perspective view of a piece of the trim. Fig. IV is a face view of one side of the trim, shown coarsely knit to bettcr illustrate the stitch. Fig. V is a similar view of the opposite side of the trim. Fig. VI is a cross section of the trim, the stitching not being shown in order to illustrate the split more clearly. Fig. VII is an enlarged detail view of one tread of one of the bifurcated or ply members. Fig. VIII is a similar view of one thread of the body portion. Fig. IX is an enlarged and coarscned view of a part of the body member. showing the connection of the Several threads. Fig. X is a diagram of the travel of the yarn guides for forming the back split or ply member. Fig. XI is a similar diagram for the front split or ply.l Fig. XII is a similar diagram for the body portion. Fig.`XIII is a perspective view of portion of the needle bars and yarn guides,

showing the course of one of the threads in the body portion and a thread in each of the ply portions of the trim.

Referring `first to the trim and the garment to which it is applied, 1 designates a port-ion of a knit garment, the material for which is cut from stock knit goods so that the edge 2 is left .raw o-r ragged.

3 designates the trim, which comprises a body portion 4 having separate integral ply or lip members 5 5 running along one of its longitudinal edges, the outer edges'of the plies being free to form a pocket 6 for receiving the raw edge of the garment body. In forming the trim, as will presently be described in detail, the body and ply members are knit simultaneously by the same double setsv of needles, but by separate threads, each of which is controlled by a separate yarn guide, the ply stitches being alike but diii'ering from the body stitch although united with and continuing therefrom at-the base of the split. The machine I have found best adapted for this work is that known as the Raschel warp knitting machine, wherein the trim may be knit lon-- gitudinally so that its beginning or outside body edge and the ply or inside edges are selvage edges. This machine; adapted for knitting my `split trim, comprises a pair of needle bars 7, arranged in spaced relation and so combined with an operating mechanism (not shown) that when one of the bars is raised the other is lowered, and vice versa. The needle bars are-adapted to slide vertically on stationary plates 8,which are spaced to provide a channell9 therebetween, andv have lips 10 projecting laterally from their upper edges to'prol'vide needle sockets 11. Mounted in each of the need-le bar leads are needles l2, of ordinary construction, the

upper ends of which are adapted for travel in the individual socket-s 11 and for projection above the top of the plates 8 when at lthe top of their travel.

13 designates yarn guides which are arranged above the needle bars and have lateral guide plates 14 provided with apertures 15, and depending arms 16 provided with .eyelets 17, there being a guide arm 16 for each plate aperture 15. The yarn guides are three in number and are adapted for horizontal reciprocation in timed relation to the vertical reciprocation of the needle bars in order to carry the yarn to proper needles. -In the knitting operation, yarn is run to each needle bar independently of theothers, so that the motion of each of the bars may be independent, although operated in harmony with the others, so that we may consider that the actual knitting mechanism comprises three sets of parts, one .for the front ply or split portion of the trim comprising vone of the yarn guides with its oscillating mechanism and one needle set,4 one for the. back ply comprising a different yarn guide -with its oscillating mechanism, and one needle set, and one for thel body portion comprising the third yarn guide with its oscillating mechanism and both needle sets, from which it is seen that the same needles are used for all three parts of the trim and that the dierences in stitch o-r structure are secured through the action ofathe individual yarn guides. More speciically,`"in forming the-front split portion of the trim the guide ,carrying the yarn for this portion is moved in such relation to the movement of the needle bar that starting with a yarn passed between two needles, the yarn is looped around the adjacent needle on the right, passed by the adjacent needle on the left and looped around the next needle on the left, this operation being repeated to produce the desired stitch.

From the foregoing description, and from.

second needle, vthe next adjacent stitch occupying the intermediate needle and the next needle beyond. The back split portion, a diagram of which is shown in Fig. X, is formed 'in the same way as the front, except thatitis offset one needle from that of the first split portion, the yarn guide carrying the strands for the back split ortion moving from right to left while the .yarn guide carrying the strands for the front split portion move from left to right and vice versa, but one needle in advance. In forming the body portion of the trim the yarn walks on both sets of needles, first in the front, then in the back, then the front and then the back, this action being continuous. Also in this portion l prefer to 4have twelve strands, each strand comprising two yarns each, so that the iinished trim will be of uniform thickness. At the point where the two split portions connect to the body portion, loops of yarn in the front and -prevent a ridge running through the trim at this point.

In comparing the stitch infFig. VII with lthe diagrams shown in Figs. X and XI, it

will be seen how the yarn rst loops from left to right, then loops from right to leftV in a 'continuous chain.

The body stitch'shown in Fig. VIII may f be compared with the diagram shown 1n Fig. XII, in the same manner, toillustrate that the yarn first makes a loop lfrom left to right in the front, moves `'to left, makes another loop from left to right, moves to as each stitch locks the other, consisting, in

this particular case, of twenty-eight separate strands of yarn which extend from end to end of the fabric regardless of how lon it is made. A fabric similar to this, whic would be produced on an ordinary machine, Would'consist of one continuous yarn running back and forth from one end of the trim to the other, the length of the trim being limited by the length of the machine.

Having thus described my invention and the manner of producing the same, what I claim as new therein and desire to secure by Letters-Patent is 1. A split trim fabric, comprising abody portion having a bifurcated side comprising selvage edges.l

2. A split trim fabric comprising a knit body having an integral bifurcated side portion comprising selvage edges.

3. A split trim fabric comprising a body portion having ay bifurcated side comprising selvage edges, and wherein the combined thickness of the split members is equal to that of the body portion.

4. In split trim fabric, a body portion formed of double strands; and a bifurcated portion integralwith the body members, the bifurcated portion being formed of single strands and provided w1th selvage edges.

5. In split trim fabric, a body portion of double thickness, a bifurcated portion havying members of single thickness, and single strands connecting the body and bifurcated portions and following the stitch of the body portion, both the body and bifurcated portions having selvaged longitudinal edges.

6. A trim strip for garments comprislng a body portion havin a selvage edge and a plura ity of plies, eac having one edge interlocked with the same longitudinal edge of the body portion.

7. A trim strip for garments com rising a body portion and a plurality of p ies intimately knit with the body portion and exalong the same longitudinal edgey tendin thereof the full free edges of .the plies being selvaged, for the purpose set forth.

8. A trim strip comprising separate plies having free outer edges, forming a pocket therebetween, and having inner edges merging into a sin le body portion, the plies and body portion aving selvaged edges for the purpose set forth.

9. A trim strip comprlsnga body portion, and separate plies extending along and interlocked with the same longitudinal edge of the body ortion, the stitches of the lies being alike 'ut differing from that o the body portion, and both having selvaged free edges.

l0. A trim stri comprising a body portion having plies Iknit intimately therewith, the plies being free of each other and merging with the body at one edge, the stitch of the plies diering from that of the body'and being adapted to form a thinner fabric, the body and plies having selvaged longitudinal edges.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two Witnesses.

RUDOLPH MUELLER.

Witnesses LETA E. Coivrs, W. A. BUDD. 

